Author Archive | Canoe Group

A Dab, A Dot, or a Dollop?

By Canoe Group on September 15, 2023 in Skin Care Routine, skin science

Believe it when your mother tells you, “Less is more!” Sometimes.If I open my bathroom vanity mirror right now, I can pull at least four products from its shelves with non-specific instructions on how much product to apply.

Apply liberally…Apply a moderate amount…Apply a substantial amount…Apply a small amount…

Helpful. Most directions leave me none the wiser, shaking my head at the bathroom sink and wondering, to echo the late comedian John Pinette: “How small is small?” We already have to deal with non-standardized sizing in restaurants, at clothing stores, and even with babies’ diapers! I draw the line at beauty products. Small, liberal, moderate, and substantial are highly subjective metrics.

Exhibit A:

What is this non-discriminant style of measuring? Are faces such different sizes that we can’t standardize beauty products’ sizing? We’re running out of our products too quickly from applying too much. We’re not seeing the benefits of applying too little! We need answers; we need a formula to follow. How much is enough? A dab? A dot? Or a dollop? Your ultimate guide is below.

Cleanser: Your cleanser serving size (if it’s a good cleanser like Elta MD Foaming Facial Cleanser) should be no more than a hazelnut. Any more, and it’s just wasteful. Any less, and you might get the deep clean you need.
Moisturizer: Think of two raisins in your palm; that’s all you need for a full application — and to keep your skin from looking like a raisin. When you moisturize, don’t just slap it on, spend a few moments massaging your moisturizer in so it penetrates surface levels of the skin.
Eye Cream: One pine nut size per eye is plenty. Or, TicTacs, if that’s a more helpful visualization. Applying eye cream with upward, gentle massaging motions will get the most out of a little.
Night Cream: A mid-size blueberry is enough to ensure night-long moisturization. Try Revision Firming Night Treatmentfor extra-wrinkle protection while you sleep.
Retinol & Serums: A pea. That’s all. I’ve seen (and have been guilty of in the past) women emptying a dropper-full on their faces. A little goes a long way if applied thoroughly.
Sunscreen: Here’s where the fun begins. One grape-sized serving per body part is sufficient when applying sunscreen. Out of all your products, you’ll want to apply, as your directions likely say, liberally.

Go forth and apply with confidence!

Microneedling: No, It’s Not a Form of Modern Day Torture

By Canoe Group on September 8, 2023 in skin care tool

What is it and why do we do it? Maybe you’ve seen it in your favorite beauty and skincare store, or at the Derm. If you’re like me, when you picked up the small needle-pricked roller attached to a handle you had visions of self-flagellating 14th-century nuns. “Huh,” I muttered, slowly shaking my head. “This seems to be a bit of a step backward.” I had a few questions.

What and Why? No doubt, it’s an off-putting instrument, but with the right technique, at-home microneedling (as opposed to professional microneedling) can be wildly beneficial for your skin care regimen. Microneedling is all about creating tiny, superficial, and controlled skin injuries by puncturing the skin. These tiny injuries accomplish two tasks. First, they ramp up collagen production as the skin tries to heal the superficial wound. Second, they create a window into the deeper layers of the epidermis, allowing for certain serums and creams to penetrate deeper and achieve a higher efficacy. How?Sterilize your MicroNeedle Roller 0.5mm before and after each use, up to 5 uses. You can do so by submerging the needle end in a cup of Isopropyl Alcohol for several minutes. While your instrument is sterilizing, apply your products. Avoid applying retinol, and Vitamin C as they can cause irritation while the skin heals from micro-needling. Instead, opt for serums like hyaluronic acid which can help counteract the natural dryness which happens during the healing process, niacinamide, and serums with peptides. Using an asterisk-like motion, gently roll the derma-roller over your skin with even pressure. Apply the eye area completely. And don’t overdo it. With derma-rollers, less is more. Massage the skin after application and keep the skin clean from makeup for 24 hours if possible. It’s best to do an at-home micro-needling treatment in the evenings. How Often? Again, less is definitely more when it comes to at-home microneedling. Some find benefit from using a derma-roller once every few weeks and some find benefit in twice-weekly sessions. But any more than four times a week is definitely too much! Watch your skin and see how it feels. Go easy and consult your dermatologist for guidance if you’re unsure.

Sources:

Singh, A., & Yadav, S. (2016). Microneedling: Advances and widening horizons. Indian dermatology online journal, 7(4), 244–254. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.185468

5 Skincare Mistakes You’re Making

By Canoe Group on September 1, 2023 in Skin Care Routine, skin science

Mistakes. They happen to the best of us!

Acne, problem and portrait of woman with pimple in studio for cosmetic, mistake or disaster on blue.

I hate the be the bearer of bad news, but chances are we’re all making a mistake or two with our skincare. Far be it from me to add yet another step into your well-situated regimen or to contradict the routine you’ve finally nailed down, but for these five mistakes, I’m willing to rock the boat. You’re not eating correctly…You can slather on the most expensive creams and serums that money can buy, but if you’re not eating right, you’re just throwing money out the window. Your skincare products work best in conjunction with a skin-healthy diet. Work with a dermatologist and dietician, or consider a supplement that targets skin health like Murad Pure Skin Dietary Supplement. You’re forgetting your neck…Have you ever seen a woman with a flawless face set atop a flabby or crepey neck? I don’t know about you, but it’s not really the look I’m going for. The neck is one of the least regarded areas. Give it some love; it needs it. Extend your routine down with a targeted product like Revision Nectifirm. You’re skimping on sunscreen…Don’t get caught up in what Harvard Health Publishing (the consumer health education division of Harvard Medical School), calls “sun-dread”1. There are benefits to moderate sun exposure. We do need Vitamin D, after all, and hiding away in a cave to let our skin turn ghostly pale can leave us deficient and cause as many, albeit different, problems as intense sun exposure. The department chair of Dermatology, Dr. Robert S. Stern proposes a middle ground whereby we can be free to frolic outside without the dreaded sun-dread. Wear an SPF of at least 15 when you’re outside for extended periods and a hat and shirt when the sun is at its strongest. Be mindful to apply every two hours. You’re ignoring your hands…“If you want to know someone’s age, don’t look at their hands, look at their face,” says board-certified dermatologist Diane S. Berson, MD, FAAD, an associate professor of dermatology at Weill Cornell Medicine-New York Presbyterian Hospital.2 Always in contact with the elements, household chemicals, and extreme temperatures, they show the earliest signs of aging. To repair moderate to severe signs of damage try Elta MD So Silky Hand Creme or Epionce Restorative Hand Cream.

You’re skipping the roller…If you aren’t using a micro needle roller you aren’t maximizing your skincare dollar or the effects of your favorite products. Skin Roller therapy is performed with a small wheel that gently rolls over the face and painlessly penetrates the skin’s upper surface twice a week. The treatment is simple but incredibly effective: research has shown an increase in the absorption of active ingredients up to 1000% and according to a study, “Histological examination of the skin treated with 4 micro-needling sessions 1 month apart shows up to 400% increase in collagen and elastin”3 which improves the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and acne scars. Try theMicro Needle Roller 0.5mm from SkinMedix for the ultimate boost to your skin care regimen.

Sources:

1Benefits of moderate sun exposure. Harvard Health. (2017, January 20). https://www.health.harvard.edu/diseases-and-conditions/benefits-of-moderate-sun-exposure

Facial Masks: 5 Reasons to Use Them Regularly

By Canoe Group on August 25, 2023 in cosmetics, Masks

The epitome of sleepovers and slumber parties, but facial masks are more than just a reason to channel Jenna Rink while sliding Cheetos between our lips and binge-watching romantic comedies.

Like anything else when it comes to skincare, a facial mask product can do more harm than good, so discerning consumers beware. Faulty masks can cause breakouts, rashes, and irritated skin. But with the right mask, you won’t want to wait for the next pajama night in. And experts say you shouldn’t!1

Masks are powerfully concentrated and able to contain high levels of key ingredients because chemists need not concern themselves with the homogenization of a product that’s going to be rinsed off after a few minutes — or thrown away if you use a sheet mask. Sheet masks, like SK-II Facial Treatment Mask, are single-use masks individually sealed. These masks have extra potency and punch because they’re sealed and protected from the air, which can oxidize and weaken key ingredients. A great option for sensitive skin, SK-II masks are 100% cotton soaked in a blend of vitamins, amino acids, minerals, and organic acids. Use semi-daily for ultimate comfort and intense hydration that will make you forget it’s a weekday! Masks can also enhance the products in your existing regimen. In fact, you can actually achieve quicker and even better results if you choose a mask with treatment ingredients that work together with the products you already use. If you treat your acne with a salicylic acid cleanser in the morning and spot treatment with benzoyl peroxide at night let’s say, adding a sulfur-based mask will get you clearer skin quicker. Each ingredient tackles acne in a unique way. Combined, they work magic! Talk to a trusted dermatologist to find the right combination of masks and products for your goals. Masks help your skincare products absorb better. Using a mask that exfoliates and moisturizes will help keep your skin at peak hydration. This allows for anti-aging superstars like acids and retinoids to absorb better. Better yet, you’ll be able to use these ingredients more regularly because your skin will be able to tolerate them with less irritation. We recommend Obagi Professional-C Microdermabrasion Polish + Mask.Masks can be problem solvers, and bring balance back to your skin. We all experience those occasional periods when our skin goes haywire, especially during seasonal changes. Masks can be like a reset button for your skin. If your oil glands suddenly kick up production, a calming clay mask, like SkinCeuticals Clarifying Clay Masque, will dry out excess oil and give any breakouts a chance to heal. Revive dry, tired skin with a hydrating and nourishing mask, like Neova Pure Copper Mask. Quickly calm red, irritated skin with a cooling gel mask, like Peter Thomas Roth Cucumber Gel Mask. Masks can help you to relax, destress and recover. And isn’t thiswhat we love about them most? Relaxing with a mask for just ten minutes can lower blood pressure and cortisol levels. Include some deep breathing to increase relaxation and trigger the release of healing and anti-aging beta endorphins. Recover with Dermalogica MultiVitamin Power Recovery Masque.

But whether we take time to relax, or slap on a face mask for ten minutes while doing laundry, it’s all gravy. You will feel the benefits either way when you include masks in your regular regimen. Just make sure you give your household a fair warning before you get all Friday the 13th Jason on them.

Sources:

1Nilforoushzadeh, M. A., Amirkhani, M. A., Zarrintaj, P., Salehi Moghaddam, A., Mehrabi, T., Alavi, S., & Mollapour Sisakht, M. (2018). Skin care and rejuvenation by cosmeceutical facial mask. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 17(5), 693–702. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12730

Do You Exfoliate? Best Exfoliators For YOUR Skin Type

By Canoe Group on August 11, 2023 in cosmetics, skin care tools, skin science

There’s a fine line between smooth and rubbed raw. Millions get it wrong every day. Never fear, we’ve got your guidelines here.

Close up portrait of a merry young woman performing an exfoliation procedure with a facial sponge

We have exfoliating gloves, cleansers, and scrubs…but are they all created equal? Experts say, No. Exfoliating is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of your skin, a natural build-up that occurs as our skin tries to make way for new cells. But according to the American Academy of Dermatology Association, if you’re not sure about how to best exfoliate your skin, you could end up doing more harm than good. I developed my exfoliating habit in my late twenties, but I wish I’d known the right way to exfoliate my skin sooner. On and off attempts at exfoliating with everything from course sugar granules to lightly granulated glycolic acid acne cleansers left my skin drier, redder, and more sensitive than it already was. I would regularly wake up in the morning with mild burns, particularly around my t-zone and my eyes. Exfoliating can be a great defense against acne, as clearing away dead skin helps to keep pores clean. In my case, I irritated my skin so badly, my breakouts grew even worse. I rubbed my skin raw. For several years after that, I gave up on exfoliating altogether, opting for softer cloths to wash my face with non-abrasive cleansers. This helped to keep my skin from getting irritated but also left my skin feeling irregularly textured instead of smooth. The natural build-up of dead skin became frustrating especially when applying makeup. I like the hydrated dewy look, but my makeup looked crusty. Now, I opt for a gentle exfoliating cleanser with a soft exfoliating glove, but it took some trial and error, as well as a good chat with a skin specialist to find the right combo for me.Here are some tips we’ve put together at SkinMedix for you to choose the best exfoliator for your skin type.

Normal SkinGlycolic acid is one of the most effective exfoliators and is great for normal skin types. It can also be slightly irritating, so moisturize after to prevent inflammation. Look for moisturizers for sensitive skin with ceramides or green tea. Start off with a cleanser likeNeostrata Foaming Glycolic Wash and follow up with a soothing moisturizer, likeSkinMedica TNS Ceramide Treatment Cream.Oily or Combination SkinA scrub with microbeads or sugar once a week and a salicylic acid-infused cleanser every day sounds like sloughing overload, but scrubs, like SkinCeuticals Micro Exfoliating Scrub sweeps away dead cells so the salicylic acid can penetrate and clean clogged pores. For your “everyday cleanser”, we recommend Obagi CLENZIderm MD Daily Care Foaming Cleanser. Or, for occasional use, you can get the benefits of both in a single product with antioxidant-richiS Clinical Tri-Active Exfoliating Masque.Dry, Sensitive, or Very Fair SkinTry products that contain lactic acid, like Dermalogica Skin Resurfacing Cleanserand PCA Skin Body Therapy. Lactic acid is a relatively large molecule that can’t penetrate the skin as deeply as the other alpha hydroxy acids, which means it’s not as abrasive. Unfortunately, anything else may make your skin drier, redder, and more sensitive.If you aren’t sure which skin type you have or have any questions about exfoliating, make an appointment with your dermatologist. Never been? Find a board-certified dermatologist near you through the WebMD Care Portal.

Cleanser, Toner…Then What? How to Layer Your Skincare Products

By Canoe Group on August 4, 2023 in Uncategorized

When it comes to layering your skincare products, it doesn’t have to be complicated. Here’s your comprehensive guide, based on our trial and error.

Woman caring of her beautiful skin on the face standing near mirror in the bathroom. Young mexican woman applying moisturizer on her face at home. Smiling multiethnic girl holding little green jar of bio skin cream and applying lotion on cheek.

Maybe it’s just us, but it seems like most women struggle with figuring out how to layer their 3 or 5 or 10-step skincare routines. Standing at their bathroom sink morning and night they try a different sequence hoping that this one might be the magical mingling that gives me baby-soft skin. There is a right order and a wrong order. But don’t fret. We’ve got a simple formula into which you can fit all your skincare products.

For the Morning: You’re rushing to get your day started. The last thing you want to worry about is the order your skin care products get applied. You need a straightforward regimen to smooth sail you through the morning.

You’ll want to begin with a cleanser, like the Obagi Nu-Derm Gentle Cleanser.
If you aren’t using a toner, it’s time to incorporate one into your routine. Their light, quick-drying composition means you’ll want to apply immediately after washing your face. We recommend the Obagi Nu-Derm Toner.
As a general rule, apply your lightest product next. Serums, ranging from liquid to gels, are applied first for optimal absorption because they have the highest concentration of active ingredients. SkinMedix recommends choosing two or three serums that treat your concerns. For wrinkles, we love formulas with added peptides, likePCA Skin ExLinea Peptide Smoothing Serum. If you’re an oily skin type, look for serums containing salicylic acid, like. Salicylic acid will help to clear out excess oils and reduce sebum levels, which can lead to acne.
Apply spot treatments next. Target specific problem areas, like a pesky persistent blemish (PCA Skin Acne Gel will tackle those spots while helping to reduce oil production to prevent further breakout) or crows feet.
Then, apply full-face treatments, like an antioxidant treatment or acne treatment (one that does not require another cleansing) for the entire face.
Moisturize to seal in your other products. Facial oils, likeEminence Facial Recovery Oil can be applied to any dry spots you find after you apply your moisturizer. But if you’re using two or more serums under your moisturizer, it’s a good idea to skip any facial oils to avoid becoming too greasy. Aaron, founder of SkinMedix emphasizes, “Facial oils can penetrate moisturizers but not vice versa. Always apply your moisturizer before a facial oil.” If you’re choosing a moisturizer with an SPF, opt for one with UVA/UVB broad-spectrum protection with a minimum SPF of 30. We recommend a lightweight, oil-free moisturizing SPF.
SPF. We know. You’ve heard it a million times, but we’ll say it a million-and-one (and then again and again). Never leave home without an SPF on your face. We’ll leave it at that.

For the Evening:

After your cleanser and toner, apply retinol products directly to the skin for the highest efficiency. But for those of us with sensitive skin waking up the next morning red and irritated from an evening retinol application, we’ve got a trick for you. Applying a serum or even moisturizer beforehand will create a buffer for your skin and protect it from irritation. Remember: Retinol is applied in the evening due to its sensitivity to the sun.
After your first layer absorbs, apply any targeted treatments, like a rich eye cream (we recommend Neocutis Lumiere Firm Riche). If you have any other spot-specific treatments like Murad Rapid Age Spot Correcting Serum for dark spots and discoloration, now would be the time to apply.
Finish with a moisturizer. You’ll want to apply a heavier cream at night if you have a normal-to-dry skin type, especially if you toss and turn in your sleep, are a side sleeper, or a stomach sleeper. You need a hefty cream that will give you deep moisture and won’t be wiped off by your pillow and sheets (we know from experience). Obagi Hydrate Luxe is a great option. If you have oily skin, opt for a lotion instead of a cream as they are less hydrating and often specifically made for problem or acne-prone skin.

It all boils down to this. Go from the lightest to the heaviest product. Keep retinol for the evenings and always apply facial sunscreen in the mornings. Apply your products with confidence for the best results!

Why Does My Acne Clear Up In The Ocean?

By Canoe Group on January 12, 2023 in Did you know?, Skin Care Science

And how to get the benefits of seawater all year long.My skin always feels good when I’m going to the beach 1-2 times per week, even if only for an hour at a time. Using good sunscreen, I notice that my blemishes clear up, and my skin feels alive. I’ve always wondered why. Now, I know. Turns out, it’s the ocean water. Simply put salt from the sea helps dry out pimples and cleans out pores. Pretty incredible. And to think of all the times we tried to avoid getting our faces wet! This is a beauty hack, old as time. Yup, even the ancient Egyptians recognized the healing properties of saltwater. Today, science has gone even deeper — literally — to find that the beneficial properties of ocean water go beyond what was originally thought. A 2016 study1 looked beneath the surface of the ocean to discover a concentration of nutrients Jack Lalane would be jealous of. Deep enough where the sun cannot penetrate, the minerals of the sea are kept in their purest form. Undisturbed by plant plankton, scientists found that the water found at depths of over 200m is where it’s at. The purest forms of:

magnesium
calcium
potassium
chromium
selenium
zinc
vanadium

You don’t have to scuba down to the depth to get your mineral fill. While the minerals 200m can be pumped up to the surface and used for a host of skin and health benefits, a quick dip at your local sure is nothing to sneeze at. For year-round ocean water benefits, when you can’t get to the beach easily, try Dead Sea Mud Mask from Pure Body Naturals. Packed with beneficial vitamins and minerals, mud from the Dead Sea has been referred to as the Fountain of Youth. This mask will improve your skin’s elasticity and minimize the appearance of pores for a youthful and flawless glow. Next time you snorkel, swim, or take a walk along the beach, welcome the splashes and enjoy the microbial effects on your skin, but know the benefits of seawater can easily be found in your medicine cabinet as well.

Sources:

1. Samihah Zura Mohd Nani, F. A. A. Majid, A. B. Jaafar, A. Mahdzir, M. N. Musa, “Potential Health Benefits of Deep Sea Water: A Review”, Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, vol. 2016, Article ID 6520475, 18 pages, 2016. https://doi.org/10.1155/2016/6520475

Are Eye Creams a Waste of Money?

By Canoe Group on November 17, 2022 in Creams & Moisturizers, Skin Care Routine, Skin Care Science

With evidence revealing that many eye creams have the same characteristics as basic moisturizers, their high-ticket price gets called into question. Know the difference and get the most for your money. I started trying to cover up my dark circles in middle school, surreptitiously blending nude-colored eye shadow (from my “play” make-up; I wasn’t allowed to wear real make-up just yet) under my eyes. It didn’t work. No surprise there. By the end of eighth grade, I was deemed eligible to wear real makeup and given a lesson by my aunt on how to tastefully apply, particularly around the eyes. Thankfully, my mother understood the importance of applying good products around sensitive areas such as the eyes and bought me an eye cream. A good name brand and it wasn’t cheap. But it took me over six years to admit that my nicely packaged expensive eye cream made no difference. My eye issues have always been dryness, dark circles, and puffiness. Don’t all eye creams do the same thing? Are they really any different than a run-of-the-mill facial moisturizer? And if not, why on earth am I paying all this money?! I contemplated morning and night.Eye creams are touted to be specifically formulated for skin wellness measures like moisture, protection against and reparation of wrinkles, the reduction of dark circles, and de-puffing. But though their teeny tiny portions ask for beaucoup bucks, some may do little more than what your facial cream does. How can we spot the difference? Trial and error is one way, but ain’t nobody got time or money for that. There’s a better way. In a New York Times article, dermatologist Dr. Perkins, an assistant professor of dermatology at the Yale University School of Medicine, and Dr. Zakia Rahman, a clinical professor of dermatology at Stanford University both agree that “there is evidence that eye creams — and even regular facial moisturizers — can help prevent and repair wrinkles. But there’s one big caveat: They must contain some key active ingredients: retinols (or prescription retinoids) or vitamin C.”1 In other words, know the ingredients in your eye cream. Looking back at the cream I used to carefully dab under my eyes each morning and evening, it was really just a basic moisturizer — none of the key ingredients I should’ve been looking for included! Our eyes deserve special attention and care specifically formulated to our needs. For wrinkle prevention and repair, vitamin C or retinoids are necessary. If we’re talking hydration, an eye cream with hyaluronic acid will help to keep the eye area, a delicate area with thinner skin more prone to drying out, moisturized. De-puffing will require (in conjunction with a healthy diet, always) antioxidant ingredients like vitamin E or ferulic acid, among others, to help prevent environmental damage and decrease unwanted swelling. Here are our eye cream recommendations based on target issues.For firming, hydration, and a good depuff: Dermalogica Age Reversal Eye ComplexFor an increase in nutrients and maintenance of cellular hydration, and wrinkle prevention: Murad Hydro-Dynamic Ultimate Moisture for EyesFor the reparation of wrinkles and cell damage: SkinCeuticals Eye Balm