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The Best Face Moisturizer: Is There Such a Thing?

By on November 27, 2024 in best & worst

It all depends on your skin type.

 

 

Have you seen a moisturizer advertised as “the best”? Tread carefully. Skincare products are highly subjective to your skin type. And we’re not talking just Dry or Oily. When choosing our skincare, we should also consider our age, our skin tendencies, our personal skincare goals, our habits, our activities, etc. As always, we highly recommend being self-aware and thinking critically about what you need, not just what looks good in the advertisements or what works for this person or that person. But to get you started, we’ve compiled some guidelines for the basic skin types. DryThose 3pm dry itches don’t lie. If you have dry skin, you need a moisturizer that lasts. But short of lathering yourself up like a grease ball, is there such a moisturizer? There is! Obagi Hydrate Luxe Moisture-Rich Creamis ideal for dry skin that craves moisture.  OilyDo people with oily skin need a moisturizer? Yes, not as often, but oily (especially acne-prone) skin still needs a moisturizer because as you apply drying products to combat acne (face wash, toner, acne cleansers), your body might try to actually rev up oil production. You need a light moisturizer to keep the oil production in your skin balanced without adding to it. Hyaluronic Marine Moisture Cushion by Dr. Dennis Grosshydrates skin while controlling oil and shine. Look for Noncomedogenic labels on moisturizers, or non-pore clogging. That will be crucial! CombinationAre you prone to oiliness on your forehead, nose, and chin while the rest of your face runs dry? You probably have combination skin. Similar to oily skin, you should use a light moisturizer. Unlike oily skin, opt for a cleanser that won’t dry out your face with strong amounts of salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide. Murad Time Release Acne Cleanser, a cleanser that controls the oiliest parts of your skin will leave you with a matte, shine-free finish. Sensitive Sensitive skin prone to redness and flare-ups needs a moisturizer to calm the skin. Ideally, a moisturizer with soothing ingredients without any added irritants. NeoStrata Ulta Moisturizing Face Cream moisturizes and gently exfoliates while creating a protective barrier for sensitive skin. Mature SkinAge means a decline in our oil production. Sounds great, right? The upside may mean fewer blemishes (although I do know women in their sixties who still get breakouts) but the downside is dryer skin and the wrinkling of our skin (those women in their sixties getting breakouts may grumble, but their skin is still supple and beautiful!). Keep skin ultra-hydrated and use an oil-based moisturizer like Eminence Coconut Age Corrector Moisturizer to help combat wrinkles and signs of aging. Filled with electrolytes, vitamin C, calcium, potassium, and phosphorus, this anti-aging moisturizer will help to restore suppleness. 

 

Our skin changes over time. What worked for you a decade ago may not work now. Finding the right products for your skin may seem overwhelming, but finding the best product FOR YOU is possible. Know your own skin. 

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Ancient Beauty Secrets Are In Your Medicine Cabinet

By on November 3, 2024 in beauty, Skin Care Science

We look at the ingredients beloved by ancient Greeks, Romans, and the Chinese and the products they’re in today. 

 

 

Skincare has been evolving for thousands of years. It should be no surprise that our ancient ancestors were just as concerned about preserving and treating their skin as we are today with the natural ingredients around them. It was the Greeks who first coined the term kosmos and then kosmētikos, or what we know as cosmetics. So it’s safe to say, it was big on their radar. At that time, all cosmetics were naturally formulated and handmade. It wasn’t until the twentieth century that synthetic and chemically manufactured products showed up on the market and entered our skincare routines. But in the 90s and 00s, with an increase in interest in natural ingredients (following the horrors of the twentieth century), we’ve been looking deeper into the past to unlock the secrets of ancient and even mythologized beauty. Thanks to archeological findings, historical writings, and anthropological studies of how people lived during ancient times, we’re able to create products today with the best that ancient and modern times offer. Good FoundationsIn India, cold cream was invented by mixing rose oil, water, and melted beeswax together. The Ancient Egyptians had an array of vegetable oils they used to keep their skin moisturized in the desert dryness. Oils and ingredients like thyme, marjoram, chamomile, lavender, lily, peppermint, rosemary, cedar, rose, aloe, olive oil, sesame oil,  and almond oil were regularly used. We know from archaeologists that ancient Egyptians even made soapy cleansers out of mineral clay and olive oil and creams made with castor, sesame, and moringa oils. Used in the Qin and Han Dynasties (221 BC -24 AD), Chinese skincare included brightening and anti-aging products made from Chinese Waxgourd Seed, and Apricot seeds were used to make a cream that could relieve black spots and acne during the Song Dynasty (960-1279 AD). Today, we recognize apricot kernels and oil as widely used ingredients for the same skin issues. The Chinese also unlocked the powerful ingredients found in pearls. “Pearl powder has been used in Traditional Chinese Medicine since the early part of the Common Era as a health, cosmetic, and nutrient supplement. The empress Wu Zetian (625–705 AD) consumed pearl powder and applied it to her face for its brightening/lightening properties.” Calcium carbonate, the most abundant ingredient in pearls, is used today as an oil-absorbent for creams and cosmetic products. Its presence in skincare formulas provides consumers with a smooth, silky matte finish to their skin. Calcium phosphates, too, are found in pearls and today utilized in protecting the skin from UV rays, and in cleansers to absorb sebum and promote skin turnover. Pliny the Elder detailed the use of certain ingredients in derma care in Ancient Rome. Honey, he noted, was used as an emollient and acne treatment. The bulb of narcissus (daffodil), removed blemishes and softened skin. Myrrh was another commonly cited ingredient. “Myrrh has been used to treat ailments of the skin since antiquity. It is obtained from the sap that is secreted as an exudate from the Commiphora myrrha tree. Myrrh is considered a natural remedy for wounds, infections, and acne and is also used as a perfume agent. “Eh…Think AgainIn Ancient Greece and Rome, where pale skin was a sign of aristocracy (i.e. money, please!), women used a powder of white lead, chalk, and crocodile dung to lighten their skin. Modern science has since revealed lead to be deadly – no duh. The Chinese in BC years went even a step further. They didn’t just powder their skin; they bleached their skin with a mixture of lead, rice, and gel from songyi mushrooms. This kind of skin-bleaching or lightning technique persisted around the world well into the 18th Century, particularly in Europe. We’ve come pretty far, even since the 1930s, when mascara dye was blinding women and a facial cream was covertly causing mercury poison. Thanks to the Food, Drug and Cosmetic Administration we now have some ground rules to keep us safe when using skincare. We’ve learned from the past, taking the good and reformulating products that are safe and effective. And we’ve added some good things, too. Through scientific advancements, we’ve been able to develop skincare staples like Hyaluronic Acid. “In 1934, Karl Meyer and his colleague John Palmer were the first investigators who discovered and isolated HA from the vitreous body of cows’ eyes.” “The retinoid drug project was launched in 1968 to synthesize compounds similar to vitamin A by chemical manipulation of its molecule to improve clinical efficacy and safety. The use of these substances in therapy dates back some 3000 years to ancient Egypt, where liver was used to treat endemic night blindness. The modern history of retinoids, however, began in 1909 when an essential factor in the viability of an embryo in the fatty extract of the egg yolk, called vitamin A, was discovered. Retinoids finally were introduced into the treatment of dermatoses including photoaging more than two decades ago”Niacinamide was discovered in the 1930s and has since become a common ingredient found in skincare products. As always, read the ingredients on the products you buy and chat with a dermatologist about your specific needs. The more you educate yourself on what specific ingredients do, the better you can work with your dermatologist to custom-create your skincare routine. And in the meantime, be inspired by the past, and learn from it. But we can be thankful for the ingredients our modern science has given us. Find the best of both worlds in many of our products on SkinMedix.

 

Sources: 
Fakhari, A., & Berkland, C. (2013). Applications and emerging trends of hyaluronic acid in tissue engineering, as a dermal filler and in osteoarthritis treatment. Acta biomaterialia, 9(7), 7081–7092. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.actbio.2013.03.005
Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327–348.https://doi.org/10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327
McMullen, Roger L., and Giorgio Dell’Acqua. 2023. “History of Natural Ingredients in Cosmetics” Cosmetics 10, no. 3: 71. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030071
Carella, F., Degli Esposti, L., Adamiano, A., & Iafisco, M. (2021). The Use of Calcium Phosphates in Cosmetics, State of the Art and Future Perspectives. Materials (Basel, Switzerland), 14(21), 6398. https://doi.org/10.3390/ma14216398
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4 Skin Care Personalities: Which Are You?

By on September 12, 2024 in Skin Care Routine

Minimalist, Trend-Seeker, Quick Fixer, or Connoisseur?I’ve been a minimalist since childhood.While my friends were chatty about the last skincare and makeup products, hair wands, and gels, taking a mall trip to visit Sephora and spending their allowance on little vials of this or that, I was happily clueless. Today, as I start to see signs of skin issues in my 30s, I do what I can do to keep my skin healthy, but my ultimate dream is still to live on a deserted island where (in my magical alternate reality) my skin is naturally buoyed and kept supple and glowing by a totally naturalistic lifestyle. *sigh* While that may be far from my reality, the heart of it rings true for me. I don’t want to spend time worrying about my skincare, or money lining my shelves with new products. To put more focus on my skin than I’m comfortable with, I’ve learned would only make me anxious and obsessive about my skincare. For others, it’s a completely different story. My friend LOVES spending a weekend evening trying out new products and reading article after article about their effects. She has beautiful skin because that works for her. A sharper focus on her skin and time spent on skincare is a form of self-love and pampering. For me, a simple facial cleanse, a serum and a quick moisturizer with SPF are all I need for my skin to feel good and keep healthy while keeping stress on the issue at bay. We all have a skincare personality; the trick is to recognize it and learn how to roll with it. Going against the grain of what works for you (and that might change through different seasons of your life), will result in more frustration, stress and oh-just-forget-it outbursts than is good for your skin. 

  1. The Minimalist

You favor a quick cleanser, and a moisturizer to make your skin feel more comfortable and less tight, but you aren’t over-fussy with brands or expensive products. You want utility and prefer a more natural approach that weaves well with your lifestyle. 

    • Pros: You won’t spend too much time worrying in front of a mirror.
    • Cons: You might experience some premature aging if you become neglectful of your skin.
    • If You Do One Thing: Choose a few good products to address skin moisture, skin suppleness, and an exfoliating cleanser. 
  1. The Trend-Seeker

You expect quick, visible results from your skincare, and always look for a new product that might work better than your last    investment. You have several pots of moisturizer, cleanser and masks on the go, ready to use for your skin’s changing needs.

    • Pros: Open to advice, Enthusiastic, Keeps a consistent routine 
    • Cons: Poor effective may be had on sensitive skin from switching up products and trying new things so often
    • If you do one thing: play around with non-essential products, but keep a consistent core product base.
  1. The Connoisseur 

You take skincare seriously, are well versed in the latest products, but unlike the Trend-Seeker, you’re not looking for a quick fix. You don’t mind taking the time to use a multi-step program, or investing in new technology with long-term trial periods. 

    • Pros: You’ll find what works and have fewer negative reactions to products.
    • Cons: Maintaining this level of commitment can be time-consuming and expensive. 
    • If you do one thing: Don’t forget that diet, exercise and lifestyle have a huge impact on the way your skin looks and behaves. You may find it easier to choose a new do-all cream with multi-benefits to cut out a step or two of your regimen.
  1. The Investor  

You’ve found a range of products you love and suit your skin. You stockpile when there’s a special offer on and see no reason to look for anything new. You’ve done your research and you’re investing in your long-term skin goals, and aren’t expecting to see any immediate effects on your overall skin health. 

    • Pros: less time spent worrying about skincare 
    • Cons: You could be affected by tachyphylaxis (when a product stops working for you from overuse). 
    • If you do one thing: Take inventory of your skin once a year for any changes due to aging, pregnancy or climate changes. Have a rotating arsenal of multiple products to interchange and avoid tachyphylaxis. 

 

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Microneedling: No, It’s Not a Form of Modern Day Torture

By on September 8, 2024 in skin care tool

What is it and why do we do it?

 

 

Maybe you’ve seen it in your favorite beauty and skincare store, or at the Derm. If you’re like me, when you picked up the small needle-pricked roller attached to a handle you had visions of self-flagellating 14th-century nuns. “Huh,” I muttered, slowly shaking my head. “This seems to be a bit of a step backward.” I had a few questions. 

 

What and Why? No doubt, it’s an off-putting instrument, but with the right technique, at-home microneedling (as opposed to professional microneedling) can be wildly beneficial for your skin care regimen. Microneedling is all about creating tiny, superficial, and controlled skin injuries by puncturing the skin. These tiny injuries accomplish two tasks. First, they ramp up collagen production as the skin tries to heal the superficial wound. Second, they create a window into the deeper layers of the epidermis, allowing for certain serums and creams to penetrate deeper and achieve a higher efficacy. How?Sterilize your MicroNeedle Roller 0.5mm before and after each use, up to 5 uses. You can do so by submerging the needle end in a cup of Isopropyl Alcohol for several minutes. While your instrument is sterilizing, apply your products. Avoid applying retinol, and Vitamin C as they can cause irritation while the skin heals from micro-needling. Instead, opt for serums like hyaluronic acid which can help counteract the natural dryness which happens during the healing process, niacinamide, and serums with peptides. Using an asterisk-like motion, gently roll the derma-roller over your skin with even pressure. Apply the eye area completely. And don’t overdo it. With derma-rollers, less is more. Massage the skin after application and keep the skin clean from makeup for 24 hours if possible. It’s best to do an at-home micro-needling treatment in the evenings. How Often? Again, less is definitely more when it comes to at-home microneedling. Some find benefit from using a derma-roller once every few weeks and some find benefit in twice-weekly sessions. But any more than four times a week is definitely too much! Watch your skin and see how it feels. Go easy and consult your dermatologist for guidance if you’re unsure. 

Sources:
Singh, A., & Yadav, S. (2016). Microneedling: Advances and widening horizons. Indian dermatology online journal, 7(4), 244–254. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.185468 
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5 Skincare Mistakes You Don’t Want to Make

By on September 1, 2024 in Skin Care Routine, skin science

Mistakes. They happen to the best of us!

 

Acne, problem and portrait of woman with pimple in studio for cosmetic, mistake or disaster on blue.

 

I hate the be the bearer of bad news, but chances are we’re all making a mistake or two with our skincare. Far be it from me to add yet another step into your well-situated regimen or to contradict the routine you’ve finally nailed down, but for these five mistakes, I’m willing to rock the boat. 

 

You’re not eating correctly…You can slather on the most expensive creams and serums that money can buy, but if you’re not eating right, you’re just throwing money out the window. Your skincare products work best in conjunction with a skin-healthy diet. Work with a dermatologist and dietician, or consider a supplement that targets skin health like Murad Pure Skin Dietary Supplement. 

 

You’re forgetting your neck…Have you ever seen a woman with a flawless face set atop a flabby or crepey neck? I don’t know about you, but it’s not really the look I’m going for. The neck is one of the least regarded areas. Give it some love; it needs it. Extend your routine down with a targeted product like Revision Nectifirm Advanced. 

 

You’re skimping on sunscreen…Don’t get caught up in what Harvard Health Publishing (the consumer health education division of Harvard Medical School), calls “sun-dread”1. There are benefits to moderate sun exposure. We do need Vitamin D, after all, and hiding away in a cave to let our skin turn ghostly pale can leave us deficient and cause as many, albeit different, problems as intense sun exposure. The department chair of Dermatology, Dr. Robert S. Stern proposes a middle ground whereby we can be free to frolic outside without the dreaded sun-dread. Wear an SPF of at least 15 when you’re outside for extended periods and a hat and shirt when the sun is at its strongest. Be mindful to apply every two hours. 

 

You’re ignoring your hands…“If you want to know someone’s age, don’t look at their hands, look at their face,” says board-certified dermatologist Diane S. Berson, MD, FAAD, an associate professor of dermatology at Weill Cornell Medicine-New York Presbyterian Hospital.2 Always in contact with the elements, household chemicals, and extreme temperatures, they show the earliest signs of aging. To repair moderate to severe signs of damage try Elta MD So Silky Hand Creme or Epionce Restorative Hand Cream.

 

You’re skipping the roller…If you aren’t using a micro needle roller you aren’t maximizing your skincare dollar or the effects of your favorite products. Skin Roller therapy is performed with a small wheel that gently rolls over the face and painlessly penetrates the skin’s upper surface twice a week. The treatment is simple but incredibly effective: research has shown an increase in the absorption of active ingredients up to 1000% and according to a study, “Histological examination of the skin treated with 4 micro-needling sessions 1 month apart shows up to 400% increase in collagen and elastin”3 which improves the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and acne scars. Try theMicro Needle Roller 0.5mm from Skinmedix for the ultimate boost to your skin care regimen.

Sources: 
1Benefits of moderate sun exposure. Harvard Health. (2017, January 20). https://www.health.harvard.edu/diseases-and-conditions/benefits-of-moderate-sun-exposure 
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Clean Out Your Cosmetic Bag…and Other Quick Skin Care Habits

By on August 27, 2024 in Uncategorized

Keeping it simple with 6 habits that will make all the difference for anyone with busy routines. 

 

Make up bag with cosmetics and accessories. Makeup cosmetics kit, toiletry pouch and beauty fashion essentials. Feminine beauty essentials on pink wooden background.

I’ll be the first to admit that I’m the worst when it comes to keeping up good beauty habits. And why? I know they’ll improve my skin and preserve it over time. But it’s easy to get overwhelmed with all the options out there. It also can take time to understand your specific skin type. So at SkinMedix, we’ve compiled a list of six truly simple beauty habits that will make a big difference now for those who value the health of their skin, no matter their skin type.

 

Clean out your makeup bagMost women are guilty of keeping old make-up longer than they should, myself included. The expiration date is just a suggestion, right? Wrong. All types of skincare and makeup have clear retirement ages. Powders and compacts are, at most, good for two years. The highlighter has been scraping the bottom of my beauty bag for well over a decade. I think I used it for my senior year prom makeup. I’m 31. It’s gotta go. The last time I tried to use it, it all but crumbled on my skin. My highlighter expired right around the time I discovered Netflix. Yikes. After three months, mascaras and eyeliners can do more damage to the skin around your eyes than good. I had four – FOUR – tubes of different mascaras, all dried out. Why do I keep them? I always get the feeling that there’s more in there I can’t see. I’m clinging to the hope that I’ll be the first to use every bit of mascara in the tube. Gotta go. Creams and liquids are no exception. You’ve probably noticed some liquids getting cakey and any creams taking on a more solid form. That’s a clear sign your products are past their expiration, but anything past a year is a gamble. I had old bottles of facial cream I’d been meaning to scrape for scraps, but it was not worth the risk. Over time, harmful bacteria can develop in our products, affecting our skin and even our eyes. Write the date on the back of your products (especially those you use less frequently like specialty makeup or at-home facials) and permit yourself when it’s time to toss them! It’s not worth the risk to your skin. 

 

Get a facial at least 4 times per yearOver time, dead skin cells inevitably build up on the skin creating a barrier your skin care products can’t penetrate. Facials may seem like a splurge, but we can think of them as part of our medical upkeep. I had my first facial gifted to me on my 30th birthday, and I was sold even before the appointment. My mother has beautiful skin, but it wasn’t always. Suffering from acne for most of her life and scar build-up, she dedicated some of her income each year to facials and drastically improved the texture and tone of her skin. On the day of my appointment, I explained my skin type to the esthetician and what my goals were. It’s now something I budget for each year under my Wellness budget. Our skin is the largest organ our bodies support. Facials aren’t all about vanity and youth, but our body’s overall well-being. Facials give a deep clean we can’t always replicate at home, though exfoliation can help. They also give us a chance to discuss our skin care needs and concerns with a skincare professional who may be able to recommend better products or a better regimen for our skin type. 

 

Moisturize throughout the dayMost of us will stop feeling the benefits of the moisturizer we apply in the morning by the time afternoon rolls around. For those of us with oily skin, we’ll need a good pat down and reapplication. For those with dry skin, (hi, it’s me!) we’ll start to feel the lack of moisture pull around the eyes and the lips especially. Take a moment to apply a few drops of a moisturizer like Peter Thomas Roth Peptide 21 Lift & Firm Moisturizer or spritz your face with a hydrating mist of Avene Thermal Spring Water. These products replenish lost moisture but won’t ruin your makeup since they’re fast-absorbing.

 

Wipe down your phone! Our phones are a breeding ground for bacteria. It’s estimated that the average phone has 18 times more bacteria than a public restroom! It makes sense. Our phones are probably the object we touch most throughout the day — after we’ve touched the door handle, shake someone’s hand, visited the restroom, pushed the shopping cart, exchanged money, and signed the check with the pen at the restaurant. All those germs land right on our cheek and jawline every time we chat away, causing pimples and irritation. To keep your phone and face bacteria-free, wipe it down with an antibacterial wipe once a day. I like the keep them in the glove compartment of my car. And while you’re at it, don’t touch your face with your hands either. Try keeping a napkin or facial wipes nearby if you feel the need to rest your chin in your hand or scratch and itch. I have a friend who swears by the Starbucks napkins as the best overall blotting and protective barrier napkins out there. Find what works best for you. 

 

Apply sunscreen — even if the only “outside” you’ll see is from the inside of your carIt’s estimated that the average American spends about 293 hours driving per year. Research shows that driving may contribute to the increased likelihood of skin cancer on the left side of the body. In a study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, data revealed that “Those who believed they were protected from sun damage while in a car were much less likely to use sunscreen (12% vs 46%, P < .05). There was a significant left-sided predominance of nonmelanoma skin cancers, except in patient who used automobiles with tinted windows.” (Kim), So before we grab our keys, grab a tube ofElta MD UV Glow SPF 36 (also available in the tinted version) and apply generously to the face and neck. For an instant, non-greasy protection on arms and hands, try Retinol by Robanda Anti-Aging Hand Treatment SPF-15. 

 

Extend DownThough we focus on our faces, our necks and chests need TLC, too! Whether it’s with your favorite facial cream or mask, extend your daily regimen down to the top of your décolleté to prevent crepey or chicken skin. We can improve the texture and tone of the neck and décolletage over time simply by remembering it’s there! For years, I was ignorant of the delicate nature of the neck and chest. By my 30th birthday, I had a slight case of chicken skin on my neck and sun spots on my chest from sun exposure and negligence. I extended my SPF facial cream down each morning and began using a light retinol and moisturizer in the evenings. Even better, use a product with an applicator specifically designed for this area, like Obagi Medical’s Elastiderm Neck and Décollaté Concentrateto help skin look and stay younger and healthier. Keeping our skin healthy doesn’t have to be complex. It can be as simple as these six, mindful habits. Whatever your skin type, and wherever you are in your journey – treating our skin as a delicate part of our biological structure, the same way we would our heart or lungs, is the first step to overall well-being. These habits are no different than brushing your teeth or doing cardiovascular exercises. Skincare isn’t just about beauty! What simple beauty habits are part of your daily routine? 

 

Sources:
Kim, D. P., Chabra, I., Chabra, P., & Jones, E. C. (2013). Sunscreen use while driving. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 68(6), 952–956. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2012.12.964
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4 Sunscreen Secrets You Never Knew

By on July 30, 2024 in Skin Care Science, SPF

Tips to wear it well and make it lastApply, then reapply. We all know the basics, but we discovered some surprising facts about sunscreen that could change how you apply it. 

  1. It pays to prep. Sunscreen builds up in your stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin)1, so if you apply it daily for three weeks before a beach vacation, you’ll be less likely to burn.
  2. Some areas need more sunscreen. The areas where the rims of your sunglasses hit your checks are particularly prone to sunburn because the sunglasses reflect light. So are the highest points on your face (your cheekbones and nose). Your nose is especially vulnerable and one of the most common areas for nonmelanoma skin cancers. Sunscreens also break down fastest on oily skin, so reapply frequently.
  3. Some SPFs are harder to wash off. Water and sweat-resistant sunscreens work because they adhere to the skin. However, this can also make it trickier to wash off without leaving behind a residue that can ultimately clog pores and lead to breakouts. Thoroughly cleanse your skin by using a gentle scrub with microbeads, like NIA24 Physical Cleansing Scrub, and a cleansing brush.
  4. Your sunscreen already works well, but it could work even better if you apply an antioxidant serum first to help neutralize free radicals that get through your sunscreen before they can damage your skin2. We likeSkinCeuticals Phloretin CF, and NeoStrata Antioxidant Defense Serum—or switch to a sunscreen that contains antioxidants likeTopix Replenix Antioxidant Sunscreen Moisturizer SPF 50+.
Sources: 
  1. Benson, H. A., Sarveiya, V., Risk, S., & Roberts, M. S. (2005). Influence of anatomical site and topical formulation on skin penetration of sunscreens. Therapeutics and clinical risk management, 1(3), 209–218.
  2. Darr, D., Dunston, S., Faust, H., & Pinnell, S. (1996). Effectiveness of antioxidants (vitamin C and E) with and without sunscreens as topical photoprotectants. Acta dermato-venereologica, 76(4), 264–268. https://doi.org/10.2340/000155557626426
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The Best Ingredients to Smooth Out Pesky KP Bumps

By on April 26, 2024 in Skin Conditions

Say Good-Bye to Chicken SkinIt may not be harmful, but gosh it can be annoying to those who have it.  Known as “chicken skin” (also called “strawberry skin”, which seems a bit more appealing to me) because of its goose-bump-like appearance, keratosis pilaris affects as many as 80 percent of teenagers and about 40 percent of adults, but is more common in women regardless. It can be mistaken for acne and is usually found on the arms, legs, and booty. Resulting from an excess production of keratin, a cream-colored protein, medical professionals aren’t sure why some folks get it and others don’t, but it may be hereditary. So what do we do about it? Read the Ingredients List!To treat your chicken skin, look for products with certain ingredients rather than products touting overnight KP banishment spells. A body wash, lotion, or serum with one or more of the following ingredients might just do the trick. There are kits, like the Glytone Retexturize Keratosis Pilaris Kit, which features a body wash and lotion made, in part, with glycolic acid. These work well, but keep in mind, the active ingredient is glycolic acid, which can just as easily be found in a number of other washes, lotions, toners, and serums. Whatever you choose, a kit or a product-by-ingredient, clearing takes time and a little experimentation. You can work with your dermatologist to find the best product with one or some of the following ingredients, but we’ve put together a small collection of products from SkinMedix.  

  • Alpha hydroxyl acid
  • Glycolic acid
  • Lactic acid
  • A retinoid (adapalene, retinol, tazarotene, tretinoin)
  • Salicylic acid
  • Urea        

For Urea tryPCA Skin Hydrating Serum and Topix Replenix All-Trans-Retinol Smoothing Serum 3X). For Alpha hydroxy acids try NeoStrata Problem Dry Skin Cream and SkinMedica 15% AHA/BHA Face Cream.Jan Marine Multi-Acid Resurfacing Pads are a good source of both glycolic and lactic acid in a convenient to-go pad. 

 

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Move Over UV Rays, Stress Might Be Worse For Your Skin

By on March 20, 2024 in anti-aging, Skin Care Science, Uncategorized

What happens when a schizo schedule becomes totally routine? — Keep calm and read on.When you’re living your life in the fast lane, your skin is often the first thing to freak out. An external showing of internal workings. We have lots of great products to help counteract the damaging effects stress has on the skin, but let’s get one thing straight before continuing on. If you’re relying on products to magically heal your skin issues cause by stress, you’re on a fool’s errand. At best, these products will be like a band-aid for a recurring wound unless you accompany them with some mind-body and stress management practices. Acne, splotchy skin, premature wrinkling, and flaky dryness are very often stress-induced and will require more than topical treatment. In some cases, a hormonal imbalance might be at play. And in others, some stress If you’re trying products, and nothing is working, consider stress may be at play and/or, a deeper hormonal imbalance. Your dermatologist and general practitioner can help you make that determination.1Now that we’re clear on that, let’s talk about what products you can use to manage stress-affected skin alongside a healthy lifestyle. 

Stress factor: Agitation; No Downtime 

What you’ll see: Redness and BreakoutsChronic high levels of stress – a by-product of a “Go, Go, Go” culture and constant reachability – may trigger your brain to release neuropeptides that cause blushing and sensitivity. Additionally, your body releases an excess of androgen hormones that can bring on breakouts (especially seen in women). Calm It Down:

Stress factor: Partying Away Stress 

What you’ll see: Wrinkles and DullnessIf you’re managing stress with late nights out and drinking, well first, don’t. PERSON SUGGESTS taking up a new hobby, scheduling a visit with a therapist. There’s nothing wrong with blowing off a little steam; but if you’re making a habit of dealing with stress by drinking, you’re not doing your skin any favors. Drinking dehydrates the skin, making fine lines look deeper and complexion look dull. Your favorite cocktail or martini  – plus, the carby snacks you binge on at the bar – is packed with sugar and can make your skin look older faster, through a process called glycation. During this process, sugar impairs the production of collagen and elastin in the skin and can cause your skin to stiffen and lose its springiness. Another issue: smoking (whether you inhale it or not) is full of collagen-eating carcinogens that increase your risk of skin cancer.Party Smart:

Stress factor: Skimping on Sleep 

What you’ll see: Flakiness and DullnessFrequent late nights leave you playing “catch up” on ZZZs, but an erratic sleep schedule can throw off your natural time clock, inhibiting your skin’s ability to stay hydrated. Research shows2 that poor sleep weakens the barrier function, causing moisture to escape. And chronic sleep deprivation impairs collagen production. After six months of sleep loss, skin starts to lose its suppleness and glow.Fake Eight Hours:

 

Sources: 
  1. Feeling stressed? it can show in your skin, hair, and nails. American Academy of Dermatology. (n.d.-a). https://www.aad.org/news/stress-shows-in-skin-hair-nails#:~:text=Your%20glands%20produce%20more%20oil,on%20how%20our%20skin%20ages. 
  2. Altemus, M., Rao, B., Dhabhar, F. S., Ding, W., & Granstein, R. D. (2001). Stress-induced changes in skin barrier function in healthy women. The Journal of investigative dermatology, 117(2), 309–317. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1523-1747.2001.01373.x
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Have You Been Duped Into Believing These 7 Skin Care Myths?

By on February 19, 2024 in Skin Care Myths, Skin Care Science

“Squeaky clean”? A cure for Acne? Anti-Agers? We look into the truth

 

Skin isn’t clean unless it feels “squeaky” and tightThe phrase “squeaky clean” came into fashion in the 1930s with hair care commercials. The saying referred to the “squeaky” sound hair would make when cleaned and stripped of oils. In skin care (or hair care), that’s not necessarily a good thing. A cleanser should clear out pores and excess oil, but if you’re coming away with a stripped or “squeaky clean” feeling, your skin may be at risk for dehydration and nutrient loss. Replace moisture with an oil-balancing cream.

 

Anti-Agers prevent agingThis is a half-truth we’re sorry to bust. As this 2016 study revealed, aging is going to happen1. Your favorite “anti-aging” products aren’t faux; they just do more to help you age than stop you from aging. All “anti-aging” products can do is make sure you age gracefully, which we think is better anyways. 

 

If a product doesn’t work quickly, it isn’t workingMost skincare products take time to show results. Don’t give up. A solid three months is recommended to gauge the effects on the skin with supervision from your dermatologist. 

 

Acne disappears after teen years If only. You keep your skin clean, you’re in your thirties, maybe even forties or fifties, but still, those pesky bumps keep popping up. Why? Even as adults, particularly women, we experience fluctuations in our hormones which can contribute to the occasional blemish. Other factors such as environment, food consumption, an overproduction of sebum, and stress could be culprits. Adult acne may never be far away, but it can be managed by lifestyle changes and with the help of your dermatologist. 

 

There’s a cure for acne Acne cannot be cured. Your acne is likely a result of multiple factors. “Acne is a multifactorial disease: genetic factors, stress, androgens, and excess sweating all influence its development and/or severity.”2 You and your dermatologist can manage your symptoms as they fluctuate. 

 

The more it stings the better it’s working Like the “squeaky clean” myth, if it stings, it’s stripping away protective barriers or the skin and doing more harm than good. Stop, reassess, and either try a different product or decrease use. Work with your dermatologist to find the best products and track your reactions. 

 

You don’t need a moisturizer if you have oily skinPeople with oily skin tend to have fewer wrinkles and thicker skin, but their skin isn’t invincible. Oily skin can still experience dryness, sometimes even as a result of not using a moisturizer. Using a moisturizer helps keep oil production balanced. 

 

How Your Skin Ages is 100% based on genetics Genetics do play a role, but skin aging is a little more complex. The environment you live in, your lifestyle, and your health habits all come into play. For example, if your tendency is to cinch your eyebrows you might find wrinkles appear sooner between your brows. If you maintain a smoking habit, your skin is more likely to see premature aging3. 

Sources:
  1. Colchero, F., Aburto, J.M., Archie, E.A. et al. The long lives of primates and the ‘invariant rate of ageing’ hypothesis. Nat Commun 12, 3666 (2021). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41467-021-23894-3
  2. Ayer, J., & Burrows, N. (2006). Acne: more than skin deep. Postgraduate medical journal, 82(970), 500–506. https://doi.org/10.1136/pgmj.2006.04537
  3. Kadunce DP, Burr R, et al. “Cigarette smoking: risk factor for premature facial wrinkling.” Ann Intern Med. 1991 May 15;114(10):840-4.
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